The Fish in the Machine

by Tasha Nathanson

Home fish leather tanning has taken off almost like sourdough bread baking during the pandemic. But just like kneading and baking a loaf by hand at home is unlike dependably supplying grocery stores with bread, so too is commercial tanning different than do-it-yourself. Moving from artisanal hand-production to a consistent and reliable commercial product, achieving marketable economies of scale, and reaching our goals of socially responsible hiring requires machinery.

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After much investigation, consultation, and even a bit of nail-biting rumination, we invested in a brand-new German tanning drum. As the workhorse centre of our production, we opted for dependable, quality engineering. Rotation provides better tannin penetration throughout the leather than can be achieved otherwise. So, it is not just for the quantity but also for the quality that this is required. Then we found two Italian machines: a buffer (so that each piece of leather is exactly the same thickness as the next, as well as throughout the piece) and a mechanical glazing jack (to apply durable natural finishes). We know that spraying on an acrylic coating would be a cheaper way to go but we would never put plastic on our leather.

Our next adventure was shipping. We’re a maritime enterprise and we love boats, but seafaring freight is a kraken of a beast right now. Not only is the cost of shipping rising like a tsunami but, as a start-up, we had a lot to learn about navigating the hidden shoals of this murky and convoluted process. The good news is our drum has safely arrived and the two Italian machines are en route as this is typed this out.

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Despite beating through the headwinds of the pandemic and the challenges of sailing a new craft startup through the uncharted waters of circular economy manufacturing, we have not run aground. We are, indeed, on firmer and firmer soil with each new milestone reached. Our crew is intrepid, keeping one eye on the horizon and hands busy on deck. We are learning how to lean into each other’s strengths in order to bring you treasure from the sea. Stay with us as we take you along to a new world.

From sea to tree, from vision to reality, 7 Leagues is using fish leather to give the boot to waste and to offshoring dirty industry, netting instead a resourceful and clean future at home…and making some very cool kicks. Watch this space – and our social media – for developing news on those shoes as well.

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Does Fish Skin Have a Future in Fashion?